Maurizio Galante Haute Couture spring 2013

Galante defends his ‘haphazard’ haute fashion Morning birdsong greeted guests to Paris's grand Theatre Chatelet for Maurizio Galante's show. The designer aims to be "experimental and challenging" with his eclectic couture creations, and this season did not disappoint on that front. "Despite appearing haphazard at first," the designer explains, "these looks are carefully composed and studied to provide a wardrobe for all seasons."Galante uses artisanal techniques and industrial technology to create a fusion of Oriental and European tailoring. The first look was all-white, a loose slouchy shawl woven with rabbit fur. Reams of silk blouse spilled from the front of the jacket. So far, so Couture, and so very, very Galante. The second look was similarly blanc, a sequin jumpsuit with a severe cut-away revealed the model's décolleté to striking effect, whilst the third texture came in the form of a papery crepe a-line dress.The make-up, done by Kim Bourhila using Shu Uemera products, was ethereal and pearlescent with lilac eyes and nude lips. Jean-Claude Gallon's weave work made hair flutter with ostrich feathers enriching the flowing tendrils. The show moved in to technicolour with a canary yellow dress, utilising a brand-new Fortuny pleating technique that made the fabric move in a way that only Couture pieces can. Galante is unafraid, as he explains, of the "occasional misfit" in his collection, and this season he succeeded in clashing motifs and textures to surprisingly graceful effect.